Visit Guadalajara This Christmas

Guadalajara is a city of exceptional beauty, history and culture. In 2005 Guadalajara was designated an American Capital of Culture. In 2011 Guadalajara earned the international title “The City of Light,” when 32 buildings and public spaces were adorned with special lights and during Christmas this world title shines at its best with the addition of the colored Christmas lights and lighted seasonal expositions that illuminate public and commercial buildings. The festive light displays radiate from the downtown intersection of Javier Mina and Avenida Alcalde. Plaza Guadalajara, the square directly in front of the Cathedral Basilica de la Asuncion de Maria Santisima, commonly called Guadalajara Cathedral, is one block from this intersection. The Plaza Guadalajara is considered the starting point for Guadalajara and as such is definitely a great place to begin a tour of this City of Lights at the huge fountain, the meeting place for most Tapatios, (Tapatio is the name given to people from Guadalajara). This plaza is beautiful anytime, however, during the Christmas season colored lights illuminate not only the Cathedral, but also the buildings surrounding the plaza. Besides the literally innumerable colored lights that the City of Guadalajara festoons its buildings with there uncountable poinsettias throughout the city displayed along streets, at traffic intersections, around public buildings and traffic circles. These bright red symbols of Christmas originated in Mexico and were given their popular name in honor of Joel Roberts Poinsett, who in 1828 was US Minister to Mexico and sent the first red blooming December flower from Mexico to the US, where in less than ten years the flowers became synonymous with Christmas.

Guadalajara is an easy city in which to walk without fear of getting lost, just look for the Cathedral spires or ask anyone where is the Cathedral. The Cathedral is the perfect place to begin your walking tour or, to take one of the “Hop on hop off buses,” take a horse drawn carriage or an antique style, but modern electric vehicle. For several centuries it was prohibited to build anything taller than the cathedral´s spires and for that reason the spires are quite visible, and the unique architecture of Guadalajara is beautifully preserved, lending these Spanish colonial edifices to adapt easily to being illuminated. During the holidays the low colonial buildings and the four open plazas that surround the Metropolitan Cathedral look particularly showy with the multitude of lights, and the front of the Cathedral has an hourly light show synchronized to music. Another nearby and beautiful church along Avenida Alcalde is the Church of the Virgin of Guadalupe, whose feast is December 12th. The plaza in front of this church is a great place to meet or make friends while sipping a warm beverage. The holiday drink of Guadalajara is ponche, a warm cider with fresh cinnamon sticks. Be sure to savor a warm churro, a dough boiled in hot oil then rolled in a concoction of sugar and cinnamon – unhealthy, but so delicious – and although available in many locations, those sold on the plaza in front of the church seem to be extra delicious.

Walk back to the Cathedral and go to the large plaza behind the Cathedral. Called Plaza Liberación because there is a large statue of Hidalgo breaking the chains that bound Mexicans and Mexico to Spain. This large plaza is basically the heart of Guadalajara, hosting cultural, civic, political and seasonal events. During the Christmas Season there will be a large nativity display, an ice-skating rink, free Christmas concerts (limited seating, so arrive a little early with your coffee), and of course, roaming vendors. This plaza, as well as the Plaza Guadalajara, are great places to watch the nightly holiday light shows. At the end of the Plaza de la Liberación is the Greek Revival Teatro Degollado, begun in 1856 and completed in 1866. This beautiful theater has a wonderful mural depicting Dante´s Divine Comedy and with great acoustics, Teatro Degollado is worth attending a performance. Behind the Theater begins the 10-block-long Plaza Tapatia, which is itself divided in two parts, one side is along waterworks with fountains and at Christmas time the fountains are enhanced with thousands of poinsettias, and at nighttime there are lighted displays. On the other side are hundreds of small retail merchants and places to eat as well as the famous International Jewelry Market. These pedestrian walkways lead to the Hospicio Cabañas, a UNESCO World Heritage site, once an orphanage and today a wonderful museum featuring murals by Orozco.

San Juan de Dios, the largest covered market in the Americas, is the reward to walking the Plaza Tapatia. Known simply as San Juan de Dios, this market features over three thousand individual stalls selling everything from sweets, pigs feet, suitcases, clothing, jewelry and sound equipment to $20,000 special gold and silver saddles. If you have claustrophobia this is not a recommended visit, however, if you want a bargain or just an experience, San Juan de Dios is an absolute must. Only a few blocks away is a street named Obregon, where shopping is a bit easier and where the merchants operate from storefronts and the prices beat any discount stores. Hundreds of merchants line both sides of Obregon and the bargains are legendary. Everyone in Guadalajara comes here. Traditionally, parents come early in the season to put toys and clothing on layaway or, to do late Christmas shopping, so that curious children do not discover what their Christmas presents might be. Of course, in Mexico it is the Three Kings who bring the presents.

One of the easiest ways to learn about Guadalajara without getting lost is to take the Hop on Hop Off buses which leave regularly from the Rotunda of Illustrious Citizens of Jalisco, next to the Cathedral. You cannot miss the red double-decker buses. Tickets, which are good throughout the day and for each of the three routes, can be purchased at the site. Travelers need to be aware of the routes and times. There is usually an English-speaking ticket vendor and like most tour buses, the audio system allows one to select a preferred language. There are specific tours to nearby historic Tlaquepaque. Once, these stately homes housed wealthy families and hosted important events. Today, shopping is the venue. This elegant town is always appropriately festooned, and, during Christmas, Tlaquepaque positively radiates Christmas. Twice weekly the buses go to Tonala but be certain you understand the days and times, which are printed in several languages. Tonala is a street market town, or tianguis, where bargains and crowds abound. Tonala is an artisans’ town with vendors, and bargain seekers crowd both sides of the main avenue. It is not a place for anyone who panics in crowded situations as there are literally thousands of vendors, buyers and tourists shuffling along the packed streets. Guadalajara will not disappoint, no matter what is on your agenda.

Getting there from Lakeside is simple. Take the Chapala Bus Directo to Guadalajara; the bus leaves hourly from either the Ajijic or Chapala bus station and delivers riders to the Guadalajara bus station, Viejo. Returning requires a bit more attention because you must ask the taxi driver to take you to Estacion de Autobus Viejo. There are two bus stations, so be certain you either ask the hotel concierge to arrange a taxi or be certain you request your driver to take you to Viejo. Enjoy Christmas in Guadalajara!