Chasing Special Energy – La Peña de Bernal

They used to say that George Foreman’s jab, his jab, was like a two-by-four suddenly shooting out of an open window and striking you in the jaw as you walked by on the sidewalk. The abrupt emergence of La Peña de Bernal has a similar effect, though admittedly less painful.

Located about an hour’s bus ride outside the city of Querétaro in the Magical Pueblo of Bernal, La Peña de Bernal is a monolith — an extinct volcano where some eight million years of erosion have spared only the now solidified lava core. This stunning protuberance is generally recognized as the third largest monolith in the world. For centuries, it has been considered a sacred site by the indigenous communities of the region and continues today to be viewed as a locus of highly rarefied energy. I made the decision to investigate these claims for myself.

I disembark the Querétaro bus to Bernal on a bright, fresh weekday morning. Shopkeepers are opening their modest tiendas while others sweep the sidewalks in front of quaint eateries. I drift along, acclimating myself to this new environment until the purpose of my visit finally dawns upon me. I look up and there it is, presiding majestically over this quiet pueblo. In the early morning light, La Peña de Bernal, the eight-million-year-old monolith, emits a compelling, transcendent glow which immediately resolves any question I may harbor about the veracity of its special energy.

Chaman Jaguar sets up his long table of shamanistic artifacts at the entrance of a dirt parking lot somewhat near the foot of La Peña de Bernal. He wears a colorful robe and lengthy do-rag. His broad facemask reveals only a pair of dark, piercing eyes. On the table, incense smoke billows around an oversized piggy bank available for donations. He extracts a quartz crystal from the folds of his robe and explains that a similar crystal, enormous in size, rests at the core of La Peña de Bernal. It exudes a powerful energy, Chaman Jaguar explains, that attracts “light beings” who protect and bestow blessings on all who approach the monolith. I make a small donation and continue on my way.

“Viva México!” Chaman Jaguar calls out as I stride towards the monolith trailhead.

For countless millennia, unique properties have been attributed to various sites across the globe. They are often referred to as power spots, power places or sacred grounds, and are considered areas of special energy. Some theories identify “ley lines” as the source of these extraordinary locales — energy currents running below the earth’s surface similar to the meridians running through our bodies utilized in acupuncture or chakra work. The intersections of these ley lines, where they crisscross each other, result in energy vortexes, points of highly intensified energy. At these exceedingly energized locations, we typically find celebrated sites such as the pyramids of Egypt, England’s Stonehenge or Machu Picchu in Peru.

Who hasn’t felt the unique ambience of the deep forest, the desert, a soaring mountain range, lakes, streams, springs or rivers; or the immense power of the vast, shining sea? Certain places clearly carry special energy. Places of worship or prolonged spiritual practice such as remote caves can also exude a palpable vibration, Additionally, many people claim positive, healing properties in certain substances such as quartz crystals or obsidian.

Among the residents of Bernal, the indigenous communities of the region and the hundreds of visitors to the site are many who attest to the unique properties of La Peña de Bernal, which include powerful surges of positive energy, spiritual upliftment, karmic or emotional healing or simply a heightened sense of peace and well-being. Openness and belief undeniably play a role in these phenomena. A renowned Korean Zen Master once stated that if a student recites the mantra “Coca-Cola, Coca-Cola” repeatedly with strong faith and determination, great benefits will result.

An ascent of the towering monolith presents a broader perspective of the experience.

The early portions of the trail are reasonable enough, and consist of a discernible, if somewhat rocky, disheveled staircase. The town of Bernal has an elevation of roughly 8000 feet with the monolith trail itself rising approximately another 1000 feet. This altitude definitely limits oxygen availability and results in heavier breathing.

I am uncomfortable with heights. Visitors without specific mountaineering gear are allowed to climb approximately three-quarters of the monolith, but this allowable portion, at least for me, is not without significant challenges. Where some scamper comfortably up smooth, sloping gradients, I’m more likely to stop, marshal my resources, and slowly ease up on my butt, legs trembling and resolve wilting. Truth be told, at one point I turn back, momentarily abandoning my quest. I sit and rest for a few moments, finally realizing, no ascent, no story, and resume my mission. With the encouraging words of complete strangers “tranquilo, tranquilo,” the literal helping hands of others and my own deep resolve, I finally complete the ascent. Beaming with satisfaction, I take in the expansive view, smile broadly at no one in particular and with equal effort, trepidation and assistance, navigate my way back to ground level. Later, I celebrate with the region’s famous gorditas (stuffed bread pockets) and delicious cajeta envinada (super creamy wine-infused caramel).

I am a long-time meditator and spiritual aspirant, perhaps especially sensitive to the nuances of a particular environment. The immediate appearance of La Peña de Bernal inspires awe and upliftment. In climbing the structure, I was forced to address deep fears and challenges to my commitment. Confronting these trials cannot help but result in personal growth. I opened to my vulnerabilities and accepted the kindness and compassion of others.

In the days and weeks following my visit to La Peña de Bernal, I have experienced a sense of spiritual renewal and inspiration. Does La Peña de Bernal radiate special energy or unique spiritual vibrations? For me, the answer is yes.

Later on that day, as I descended the monolith, I noted many visitors entering the trail dressed for a pleasant Sunday stroll, slathered in make-up, carrying babies and wearing expensive dress shoes. I discourage this approach. Wear sturdy footwear and comfortable hiking garb. Be in half-decent shape. The climb is no joke.

There are festivities and traditions held at La Peña de Bernal during the year which typically attract scores of visitors. These events include The Spring Equinox Festival (March 19-21), which has a spiritual renewal focus; the Festival of the Holy Cross (May 1-5), which includes the faithful carrying and placing wooden crosses at the summit of La Peña, a marathon and a mask-making contest; and the Bernal Festival (Jan. 11-20), which honors San Sebastián Mártir, a noted contributor to the local church. The trail itself is open all year long.