Greenland’s Icebergs, Inuits and Summertime Insects

Part I

Enthusiasm in the captain’s voice sounded over the ship’s PA system. “In five minutes, we will turn into Greenland’s Prince Christian Sound, one of the most breathtaking passages in the world. It’s my first time navigating through these waters, so let’s celebrate this venture together.”

Wow, I thought. The captain, excited like the rest of us, must be experiencing those ‘in-charge’ jitters that come with any new voyage.

My husband and I grabbed our parkas and rushed to the observation deck of the small ship, Azamara Quest, on its maiden Reykjavik to Montreal voyage. I considered the irony that we started out in Iceland, with its huge stretches of forests and grasslands and were sailing to Greenland, which is 80% ice-covered. We entered the majestic waterway named for Prince Christian VII of Denmark that separates the mainland from the Cape Farewell Archipelago. Setting foot on Greenland soil loomed, after the ship completed the six-hour transit through this protected 62-mile crossing.

Prince Christian Sound Out on deck, my thoughts of land evaporated into the crisp air. Cobalt skies pierced through wispy clouds and sun rays glistened upon gentle ripples. I raised my binoculars for a magnified look into this stunning introduction to Greenland, my eyes searching for a tail flip of a minke whale or a soar over of a sea eagle. Jaw-dropping natural beauty unfolded, as I eyed neon-blue icebergs drifting in clear Arctic waters, gasped as the ship maneuvered between the narrows of sheer granite cliffs, and gazed at a multitude of glaciers inching down to the water’s edge. Hundreds of passengers hugged the rail, snapping photos, but the hush of awestruck voices, the silence of wonderment filled the space.

For the past 36 hours, the ship had been pitching, listing, rocking. and rolling, while crossing the angry North Atlantic Ocean and the Denmark Strait. As we entered the placid waters of Prince Chrisitan Sound, I felt the same unsteady sway that comes after a ride on a Tilt-a-Whirl. The captain slowed the vessel to dodge floating icebergs, and to let passengers see, hear, smell, and almost feel the geological formations, the waterfalls, and the arctic arms of Greenland’s ice sheet.

Transiting the Sound is not guaranteed. As with every maritime activity in Greenland, the weather rules. Ice jams, fog banks, powerful winds, and glacial calved bergs only 10% of their mass visible above the water surface, can abort any anticipated excursion. Inuit spirits and ancient Norse Gods offered their benevolence that day, giving us a July midnight sun, and a sparse ice flow.

 During our glide through this billion-year-old channel, the ship’s staff threw a party out on pool deck with a feast and music to celebrate this ‘remember forever’ experience. Clinking champagne flutes, with a backdrop of a 10 pm sun, 3,000 ft. glacial-capped precipices, and bizarre-shaped bergs floating by, ranked high on my list of unforgettable moments while traveling this world.

Qaqortoq Village The Quest churned through the South Greenlandic fjord system toward our destination, Qaqortoq, the largest town in South Greenland, with a population of only 3,200. I drew back the black-out curtains at 3AM, the sun already rising from its short nap. I saw jelly-bean-colored houses that brighten dark winter days, resting on large patches of summer green, dotting a rocky cliffside up from the waterfront’s edge. The ship dropped anchor a ten-minute tender ride from the harbor, where fishing boats, an island-hopping ferry, and a huge iceberg occupied the docking berths. We had arrived. Something to consider, as passengers who had cruised to Greenland before had never seen it! Every port stop had been cancelled due to dangerous sea conditions.

Inuit people, who emigrated from the Bering Strait around 1000 A.D., comprise 85% of Greenland’s current population of 57,000. Citizens of Norse heritage, stemming from Eric the Red’s exploration, gives the region a mixed, indigenous feel. In 1721, after Scandinavian missionaries arrived, Greenland became a territory of Denmark. Although Denmark still controls Greenland’s defense, security and currency, Greenlanders obtained home rule in 1979 and received additional autonomy and Danish citizenship in 2009.

We jumped from the tender onto the terra firma of Qaqortoq and were greeted by shy, proud Inuits, offering their hand-crafted, seal-skin mittens and hats for sale. Visitors can arrange kayaks or boats to the Uunartoq Hot Springs, experience minke whale encounters, or visit the ancient ruins of the Viking Hvalsey Church. We explored the village on foot, lingering and taking in the views. Travelers should know that tour operators, mindful of the short summer season, charge from $100 to $700 per person, depending on the excursion. We encountered a group from the ship, each paying $119 for a walking tour that we did for free.

On a path of dancing wildflowers, we encountered the ‘Stone and Man Project,’ which entails forty Inuit and Norse images carved on flat rocks by local artists. The pier’s fish market provides a friendly venue to interact with residents. The nauseating smell of freshly caught cod and Vitamin C-rich whale blubber lined up on stainless steel tables permeated the room, and the workers’ homes, no doubt. Fishermen, the lifeline of the community, who chatted and smoked cigarettes outside, tipped their seamen’s caps to us, the other salvation for this village, the tourist.

Clues of harsh winter survival unfolded in the hardware store with displays of hunting rifles, batteries, gasoline heaters, ropes, heavy clothing, and snowshoes. The coffee stand and sandwich bar nestled in the corner, buzzed with customers, and late July tourists waited in line to buy mesh head nets.

Despite the northern latitude, the summer’s melting snow and rising temperatures provide breeding grounds for mosquitoes and black flies. Even the dogs wear head nets! Without them, outside activity becomes intolerable. The best tip for a summer trip to Greenland: bring netted facial protection and strong insect repellent.

Strolling through the narrow, macadamed lanes, we passed the oldest fountain in Greenland, from 1932, visited the Qaqortoq museum, checked out the 1830 Von Fresler Church surrounded by windswept grass and yellow daisies, and followed the stony brook to the edge of town. ‘Roads to nowhere’ end within the periphery of this and every village. Transit between all coastal areas in Greenland requires boat, helicopter, snowmobile, or ATV. While sipping a latte at the Iceberg Café, I wondered how these people endure the remoteness and isolation. I considered it inviting, but only for a fleeting moment.

Check back next month for a visit to Nuuk, Greenland, the most Northern capital city in the world.