Arriving up in Zacatecas (8,148 feet above sea level) for a visit from the coast one June, my husband and I found all the clichés describing high altitude air—cool, crisp, crystalline, effervescent—to be fresh and new. Blocks of the centro looked to have been imported straight from 16th or 17th century Spain, which of course […]
Encounters With History Read More »
Before Ajijic and Chapala existed, before the Spanish conquest and Christianity, before the Aztecs came looking for the eagle and the snake bringing the god Huitzilopochtli and the Flower Wars, there was Cosalá. On the forested shores of the lake, Cosalá—meaning Place of Trees in Náhuatl—had existed for who knows…two thousand years? More? The people
The Treasures Of Cosalá Read More »
I was waiting for the lluvias to remind me—do you first hear the rustle, the distant hiss of rain crossing the lake and making its way up the hills, or does it start with that special lovely smell, that unique earthy perfume? I have guessed that it might be both: the smell might come from
I think it was not many years after the millenium that this particular circus came to town. I know it was Ash Wednesday. Even the hootchy-kootchy dancer had a smudge on her forehead. All day there had been a great to-do in the pasture across from the soccer field in San Pancho – the pasture
Though I met my husband, Jonathan, 50 years ago, we didn’t marry until 20 years later. It was all very messy. Not only did I have a first husband, but later Jonathan had a first wife, They were marriages about which we were both serious, and in which we were both unhappy, and all the
It Was Just Like That Read More »
As my husband and I made our way around San Sebastián’s plaza on the Day of the Dead, with real sadness we encountered the altar dedicated to the memory of Doña Conchita Sánchez Encarnación, who had departed without our knowledge. Her ofrenda was located under the gazebo in the center of the plaza, perhaps an
On the trail of a catastrophe Read More »
